To help ensure quality, everything is fully tested prior to shipment. All items are taken out of the original shipping crates and visually inspected. It will work for you because we tested it! Items such as the electronics are placed on specially made test benches and configured as if they were in actual use. Items are run tested, load tested and put through actual performance criteria to verify that they work properly. Air tubes have had air in them for over a week to confirm they do not have a slow leak. Tires are tested for roundness and blemishes. We want to make sure that your purchase lasts for years and we have the parts, technical know how and customer service to make sure that we can help you to achieve that goal. Just look at all of those readily available parts! Just try getting this kind of supply from anyone else. It just can't be done, we know because we have looked and you have told us this is true! These units are hand made of tubular steel and aluminum with high quality, replaceable parts. This is the top of the heap in terms of high quality, readily available parts and great service. Make sure you notice that you can get a "freebie" from us. The Tool Kit (es7070tk) can be added to any order for free by making a note in the comments section of your order. The manual that you lost is now available at www.todayshightech.com on the left side. The button that says e707 manual will give you a PDF file that you can print out. We are one of the few sites in the country that you can fly into to pick up your orders. We will have your order waiting at the KCMA (Camarillo, California) airport or you can come by the warehouse (prior reservations required since we are on the road or in the air a lot). Choose the local pick up option. Otherwise we will ship your choices by best method such as United States Postal Service Priority (because of APO, FPO, POB or Saturday delivery) or UPS, DHL, Freight because of weight or distance. Don't worry, if you choose local pick up and decide you need shipping or choose shipping and decide to do local pick up we will change your order. You will need to decide quickly though, most orders are sent the same day the order was received (except Sunday). If the order is already shipped, oh well! Also check out the accessories section for a cool airplane and/or thumb bell for the handle bars. These items are just a few bucks but You will really enjoy them and have a great laugh or smile along with everyone else that sees them guaranteed! |
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| Just how is this 12 volt battery going to run your 36 volt scooter? It may seem like an industry secret to you but even your car uses cells of about 2.1 volts (this has to do with the physical properties of a lead acid battery) ganged up to make your 12 volt car battery run. The same principle is used here. You take three of these industrial batteries with the F2 connector (read .250 blade) jumpered together to add up to the 36 volts needed for your scooter. Because of the weight and since you will need three of the units to make the motor hum we suggest that you try locally first. These are the same industrial batteries that are used by virtually every industrial fire alarm, burgler alarm and other applications for back up or uninteruptable power supplies. Look around if you like. Try Granger, Sears, Wal-Mart first. You will find out our batteries are better, last longer and power a scooter further than the competition. But hey, you might save a little, a couple of times we might add since you will buy theirs several times to what you had to do when you bought ours. I particularly liked the call from the guy that said he could buy batteries 'that look like yours except they are a lot lighter' for five bucks. When I asked him why he was calling us, he said because they would not let him pick them up at their warehouse and 'they wanted 20 bucks apiece to ship them'. Duh? A Sucker is Born Every Minute Sir! They were half of the weight because they were more full of air and lacked something in the case Sir! We welcome you to come to Southern California from Paris, France to Christchurch, New Zealand and pick up your stuff. What's a 12 hour flight anyway? We have enough runway at KCMA for your Gulfstream 5 or Falcon to land and taxi over to park next to our itty bitty Cessna T210 or T206. Hey, it beats walking! Have your people talk to our people. The special single 36 volt 10.5 amp hour battery is ours alone (yes, it was custom made, absorbed glass mat technology, presurized vessal recombinant gas or for the old guys, valve regulated lead acid, to give longer endurance and range es7070182). The single battery gives longer run time BUT like everything else that is unitized, you cannot just change one of the 12 volt units by itself (since this is now a single sealed unit).If you have this one we are the sole source that we know of. If you can find it somewhere else, let us know so that we can get the word out. Life is short, do random acts of kindness. And then there was the guy that called up wanting the 9KW Lithium Ion Battery for his Prius. That battery is $12,000 US and he wanted to know if should buy two of them? Yes Sir was the answer, You'll really save gas money owning the Prius with two of those batteries! |
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| INFORMATION - Rare Earth brushed DC permanent magnet motor. Speed at no load is 3150 rpm (yes, we know that the 'other guys' motors are 2500 to 2650 RPM and why we have more torque than they do at $20 to $40 less than they are charging). 746 watts per horsepower puts this 350 watt little guy at just just under a half horsepower (for a mathematical sidebar please visit the Wikipedia and enjoy the history of 'horsepower' and while you are at it do the conversion to 'Newtons' since everything is going metric and a horse is not metric http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower#Electrical_horsepower. Uses a 13 tooth HTD industrial belt pulley (notice how so many of these parts are 'industrial parts'?). This motor is a work horse and is very strong for its size. Here comes the fun stuff. The HUB motor is stronger than the NO HUB motor and costs a little more. The inherent design of the HUB puts the support bearing out further and only leaves about 1/8' inch unsupported before getting to the drive gear. The additional support helps if the belt is too tight and you go off road, jump curbs and really jar things around. This can cause the shaft to fracture and ruin the rest of the ride. We recommend that if you have gone through several NO HUB motors that you upgrade to the HUB motor or ease up on the rodeo riding. Of course we can sell you the upgraded HUB swing arm along with a HUB motor for you to install on your electric steed or if you send us an insurance certificate with at least a 2 and six zeroes and make us the beneficiaries of the policy we can tell you how to do the conversion yourself, if you have a large drill press that can select a speed of 195 RPM, have a bi-metal hole saw with a pilot bit, have a really nice clamping arrangement that will keep the whole thing from ripping off your arm at the joint. Your cause will be helped if you are or have been an Eagle Scout and know how to operate machinery and keep all of the fingers you started out with. Please notice the motors in the picture. One does not have a hub (E7070191), one does (E7070192). If all else fails, a no hub motor will work in a hub motor bracket but not the other way around. Notice the OK in red on the label. Every motor, battery, throttle, contoller etc. (read everything) is tested before installation and then track tested prior to shipping or delivery. How lucky can you get? NOW go ahead and order the correct motor. You cannot order here, you need to go to E7070191 (NO HUB) or E7070192 (HUB) |
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| 36 Volt 350 Watt Motor With 13 tooth pulley, no hub. Did you read the information contained in E7070190? Please read that before you order this motor. |
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| 36 Volt 350 Watt Motor With 13 tooth pulley, HUB RING will NOT FIT a no hub bracket. Yes, this motor will last longer than the other motor because of the HUB bearing design which is also why it costs more money and needs the special mount on the swing arm in order to fit. Please read the information contained in E7070190 before ordering this motor. It will only fit into the large HUB motor swing arm or into the properly converted HUB motor swing arm motor mount. |
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| This motor controller works in conjuction with the 'HALL EFFECT' induction thumb trottle to control the speed of the motor. The motor controller includes some algorithyms that sense over loading, over heating and over torque to TRY and prevent motor or battery failure (yes Bucky, some of you have even figured out how to break this too). The unit is sealed and includes a heat sink fin arrangement. Very good reports for the most part BUT for those that submerge the scooter, go off road and go out of their way to generally abuse the heck out of everything until something (read many things) will fail. Lucky for you we have lots of spare parts. Please notice the OK hand written in red. Every contoller, throttle, battery etc. is tested prior to assembly then tested again as a completed unit before shipping. We have a very high confidence level that you will be happy with your replacement parts. How sweet it is! |
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| You might not remember what the frame looked like before your motor home landed it's duals on your scooter. It will only take you about two hours to completely strip the parts off the old unit and have a new frame for Johnny to go tear up. Maybe Johnny put the scooter to make it look like you are the one that destroyed the frame when it was really him that went off road and... well you know the rest of the story. |
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| A nice casting in aluminum that will produce a very strong clamping force to hold the handle bars or the seat to the down tubes. Please notice that the large one is on the left (e7070130). The baby clamp is on the right (es7070135). |
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| The tires have been found to wear very well considering their size and the weight they are being asked to carry. A good rule of thumb is about 1500 to 2000 miles with normal use (we do get reports from commuters of way over 3000 miles used on a daily basis). These are the famous "S" style tread pattern that is designed for street use. If you want to wear out a tire quicker or you don't want to squeeze every watt into rolling your scooter along versus overcoming rolling resistance just don't inflate to the recommended 50 PSI which is higher than the run of the mill tires that can only handle 35 PSI, our tires translate into lower rolling resistance and a longer ride on a charge. Some of the kids can go through a tire in less than 100 miles by showing off, skidding, hard braking and doing what kids do best. To save your knuckles and patience we have a package that includes the tire, tube and rim with sealed bearings at a good price break compared to adding the parts individually (es7070172). If you are on the road this is a good spare to have. If your little angel (or you) hops curbs and does jumps (none of which are covered by any warranty or recommended) you may want to get this package. If they did the damage take the money out of their allowance, if you did the damage, then what? |
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| Most people do not give a tube the respect that it deserves. It holds air under pressure and in this case we recommend that you frequently check the air in the tube to be at 50 PSI. I SAY AGAIN, KEEP THE TIRES @ 50 P.S.I. All inner tubes will leak air. This is a natural process and cannot be helped. You must check the air in the tube and refill as needed. This is the best way to get every watt of energy to produce a rolling force instead of being used to just push the flattened tire along. The tube deserves a long life and before we send the tube out to you we prefill the tube with air for a minimum of a week to make sure that you are getting what you ordered. You will not get a tube that is DOA like that last two you got from the 'other place'. We have been there and do not want you to go there. Make sure you use a good lubricant when installing the tube and the tire. This can be anything from a soapy solution with some dish soap and water or some Simple Green. Please don't try to install a tire without proper lubrication, you will not like the results. Remove the valve stem and fill the tube several times and let the air all of the way out. This will allow the tube to position itself and not be pinched in the tire (a pinch will guarantee a flat in no time). Install the valve stem, inflate to 50 PSI and check the valve stem for leaks. When you are sure that there are no leaks, install the valve cap. About the only thing left to do now is to take a ride or was it a nap? AND ONE MORE TIME KEEP THE TIRES @ 50 P.S.I. |
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| This is a reflector only and is not powered. If you get energetic you can go to Radio Shack and get some nice LED (light emitting diodes) set up and back light this unit. Be the first on the block to have it! Let us know if you need the two mounting screws to attach this to the rear fender otherwise they will not be provided. Make a note in the comments section when you order. |
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| This is the famous Model 90 All Weather Shuang Zheng Brake. This is a very reliable design and we have been told by the manufacturer that over 1 billion of these units are in use all over the world. This unit has a heavy chrome coating with electroplated fittings to give many years of service. It will not do well in a corrosive or sandy environment such as the beach or salt air as can be expected (remember we do not recommend going off road and that includes the beach). The inner constricting band is riveted to the inner spring tensioning system. These units are tested & run in using the brake drum assembly to round out the band and make your break in a breeze since we have done most of the work for you. What else did you expect? This is quality & service! |
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| The switch is a 30 amp, heavy duty unit and is normally very sturdy with good cooper contacts. You can use a good quality electrical contact cleaner to get the best connection. A good test if your scooter seems to just stop without a good reason and you find that the fuse is OK is to test the key switch. Use a continuity tester and check to see if you have a good connection. Another test is if the scooter and lights will only turn on when the scooter is plugged in to the charger. The charger is putting out up to 44 volts and 1.4 to 1.7 amps so the scooter will not have a lot of power but the motor will run. The likely culprit is the switch. Unhook the nylon connector in the controller box, use a continuity testor. If the switch is good, remove the motor leads from the motor controller by loosening the banana plugs. Run a jumper from the 36 volt battery and see if the motor runs. Be very careful since you will be bypassing the controller and the motor will run at full speed. If the motor runs the controller is faulty. Check all of the connectors and make sure that no moisture is present. Use a good electrical grade contact cleaner and recheck all of the connections. If you still cannot get a reading of 36 volts from the output of the controller, this is the culprit. You need parts? We have parts! |
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| What is a 'smart' (some are labeled 'Intellect') charger anyway? We only use chargers that are UL listed and from companies that are ISO 9001 or better. We have multiple vendors with the same criteria. A charger that is 'smart' does a lot of things at the same time. The primary thing that makes these chargers smart is that they have a 'brain' that tells them exactly what the battery needs. The voltage (think pressure) of the charger modulates at between 38 and 44 volts depending on the current the battery needs to take. The amperage (think volume) will go from 0 to .1 of an amp on trickle charge to about 1.38 to 1.48 amps (from our empirical tests of a 1.8 amp rated charger) on normal or full charge. This regulation is happening by 'pinging' the battery electronically hundreds of times a minute and reading the return to continuously monitor the battery and it's needs. A chargers life is happiest when the battery terminals are kept corrosion free and dry. The less resistance that the connections encounter goes a long way to having the battery get a full charge and by the same analogy, providing the maximum output. A smart charger also lets you keep your scooter plugged in when not in use to keep the battery at it's peak. A sealed lead acid (SLA) battery is good for around 300 charge/discharge cycles. In normal use this will give years of performance. A WORD OF CAUTION. Under no circumstance should anything other than the approved 'smart' UL listed charger be plugged into the side of the scooter charging port. YOU CAN EXPECT A FIRE, EXPLOSION OR MORE. DO NOT DO IT! If you do not have a warning sticker next to the charging port just call us at 805-504-5808 and we will mail you one for free. Yes we know that a 1.8 amp charger can sell for $25 to $50 more than we charge. If you want to send more, it is OK with us. |
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| The inherent nature of the front forks assembly is one of strength and durability. The only time we have seen failures of this assembly is by grossly jumping, slamming and running into things that should have never been. This assembly does not include the aluminum support tube assembly that allows the forks to fold down, no brakes or the buttons on the top of the shock tubes but does include just about everything else including the sturdy Akisu Rapid Suspension Technology shock system. If you want the entire assembly that would be the Front Forks Master Assembly. You need parts? We have parts! |
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| Aluminum seat post only. Nice welds with a satin finish. Fits inside the seat post tube and slides very nicely if neither are bent. We will let you be the judge of how smoothly you like these to slide. Universal seat holder is designed to accomodate most bicycle seats. |
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| Includes safety disconnect that turns off the controller and removes power from the motor to allow full breaking action. The way you tell this is the left hand is because you use your left hand to squeeze the brake while behind the handle bars. |
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| This is the complete unit to replace a ripped and damaged unit. |
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| This is a very sturdy Hall Effect controller (Please see en.wikipedia.org or specifically http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect. You will not have the need for a dating service or a lonely hearts club since any person that can embrace the beauty of the "Hall Effect" will never be lonely). Since there are no brushes to wear out this little guy should last a lifetime. The world as we know it is inhabited with gremlins that go about conquering good. If something you own that should have lasted forever (like this throttle) and does not, it was acted upon by a gremlin. This item is electronic and should not be subjected to water. Please do not use your scooter in the rain or cross any streams or rivers (this includes the very happy couple that rode their units onto the sand and into the surf on Kona, what was on their minds? We heard it had something to do with Maui Wowwee?). Electricity and salt water do not like each other! The little indicator lights are cute but do not neccessarily indicate battery condition. Use a voltage meter. A fully charged battery should indicate about 13 volts. Get a good volt meter (some of the cheap ones can be off up to .5 volts or more from experience). Do not use your tongue on the terminals. This battery has a lot bigger kick than a nine volt battery and could result in some very serious burns. Do not do it. Darwin points will not count. |
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| These are very strong aluminum castings. BUT they were never designed for jumping, trick riding, overly strong side loads or excessive weight. The only ones we have ever seen fail were because of some one doing all of the things we say not to do. The tire fits very snug onto this rim and you need to use a good lubricant when putting the tire on the rim or you are going to pinch the tube and rip the rubber coating around the sealing bead. For those of you that are faint of heart, value your knuckles or hate to ruin that salon manicure, we offer the rim including bearings with a tube and tire already mounted (es7070172). This works out cheaper than buying the parts by themselves and sure beats the heck out of doing it yourself. The correct tire to use is a 12.5 X 2.25. |
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| The axle is a mildly hardended unit (you do not want it so hard that it shatters) that includes the safety cleets, flared tensioning nuts and the spacers to properly position the rim/bearing assembly. These are very hardy units but we have seen some fail (read bent after destroying the rim along with the fork assemblies) after some serious off roading, slaming into walls and sidewalks at high speed. These units were never designed for anything other than paved roads and gentile manners so let's be careful out there. |
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| This assembly is not for the faint of heart, it is not for those that do not like scraped knuckles or are concerned with their manicures. Today you prove your worth in the evolution of man. You are going to need a 17mm & 14mm to loosen the axle but don't do any of this until you have used the 8mm to undo the brake housing assembly positioning bolt. This is the key to aligning and holding alignment for the belt tension and pulley belt. A 10mm nut driver is very handy for positioning the axle tensioners in perfect alignment and for installing the HTD belt without side loads and correct run out. After you get all of the geometry and tension correct, take a deep breath, puff out your chest and grunt with satisfaction. This is not for the lilly livered to attempt. The whole shebang that includes the brake, tire and tube is es7070192 and can be had for a mere $5 bucks more. For the $5 bucks more you get a tire, a tube, a brake and the whole thing put together. So what is it going to be? Brains or Brawn? Makes a great spare! |
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| An industrial belt that is designed to take a lot of abuse. Many will go 3000 miles and more. This is the smallest belt we carry. It is used if you need to move the axle further up the adjustment channel and can not do it with the standard 710mm belt. The longevity criteria has a lot to do with power application. The more you ease into it, the longer everything will last. Sounds a lot like life, doesn't it? |
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| An industrial belt that is designed to take a lot of abuse. Many will go 3000 miles and more. Check the tension adjusters location. If the axle sits about in the middle of the adjustment slot then the belt is the right one. The most common belt is the 710mm. If the axles sit too close to the inside stop of the adjustment slot you will need to order a longer belt such as the 720mm. You will get about 1/4" of travel per 10mm difference. The longevity criteria has a lot to do with power application. The more you ease into it, the longer everything will last. Sounds a lot like life, doesn't it? |
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| An industrial belt that is designed to take a lot of abuse. Many will go 3000 miles and more. Check the tension adjusters location. If the axle sits about in the middle of the adjustment slot the belt is the right one. The most common belt is the 710mm. If the axles sit too close to the inside stop of the adjustment slot you will need to order a longer belt such as the 720mm. The 720 will give you just a bit more room. You will get about 1/4" of travel per 10mm difference. The longevity criteria has a lot to do with power application. The more you ease into it, the longer everything will last. Sounds a lot like life, doesn't it? |
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| An industrial belt that is designed to take a lot of abuse. Many will go 3000 miles and more. Check the tension adjusters location. If the axle sits about in the middle of the adjustment slot the belt is the right one. The most common belt is the 710mm. If the axles sit too close to the inside stop of the adjustment slot you will need to order a longer belt such as the 730mm. The 730 will give you just a bit more room. You will get about 1/4" of travel per 10mm difference. The longevity criteria has a lot to do with power application. The more you ease into it, the longer everything will last. Sounds a lot like life, doesn't it? |
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| Very strong industrial belt pulley. Spin the old one off and spin the new one onto the threaded drive wheel shaft. This is a cast item. You would not even want to know the price of a billet CNC unit. Hass Automation is one of the best CNC machine makers in the world (and yes, they have our scooters). If you want a Billet CNC pulley just bring your American Express Platinum Card and we can order one for you. This pulley will accomodate all of the belts (700, 710, 720, 730mm lengths). What else would you expect? |
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| Metal alloy to handle the heat from the 'All Weather 90'. Spin the old one off and spin this one on to the threaded drive wheel. |
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| Nice aluminum drive wheel with threaded outer shaft to accomodate the industrial HTD 5mm belt and the brake drum for the 'All Weather 90'. The complete package is E707019 for the three pieces to make the drive and brake system or es7070192 for the entire package that includes the tire and tube. This makes a great ready to go spare while you are on the road. |
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| These are industrial bearings that are sealed hence the designation of zz. The fronts are not the same as the rear so make sure that you are ordering the correct bearings. We recommend a press to install these properly or you can take them to just about any machine shop and have the old ones pressed out and the new ones pressed in. CAUTION there is a spacer inside the housing to properly position the bearings and prevent the outer spacers from crushing the bearings. Be very careful not to over torque the axle bolts. The bearings should spin freely and not put undue pressure on the bearings. |
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| These are industrial bearings that are sealed hence the designation of zz. The fronts are not the same as the rear so make sure that you are ordering the correct bearings. We recommend a press to install these properly or you can take them to just about any machine shop and have the old ones pressed out and the new ones pressed in. CAUTION there is a spacer inside the housing to properly position the bearings and prevent the outer spacers from crushing the bearings. Be very careful not to over torque the axle bolts. The bearings should spin freely and not put undue pressure on the bearings. |
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| A strong all metal unit to replace that rusted bent up thing that has been sitting outside instead of protected in the garage or the car port. The logo is made of a non slip surface. Will also fit the Angell unit with a different logo. Does not include the three bolts and flared nuts to mount the unit. Since you are going to all of the trouble of replacing that bent, rusty deck since you let your trusty little scooter live outside like a junk yard dog, we will GIVE YOU THE DECK NUTS. Specify if you need these chromed metric hex bolts with the flared nuts that go with them. Our little present to you if you need them and remember to ask! Make a note in the comments section of your order. Think about letting that trusty scooter live indoors or everything will just rust again. |
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| The three chromed, beveled metric hex bolts with the three metric, flared lock nuts to hold the deck and for the Elite, the deck and rear fender in place. Yeh, Yeh, I know that we give these to you if you buy a new deck and no, you do not get a new deck for free if you BUY the deck nuts and bolts. Life just does not work like that! |
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| This price is not a typo. We ordered 500 (and you guessed it, we got a whole lot more than 500, you guess the number). So do yourself a favor and replace that cracked ugly thing before the Senior Prom. The beauty of the rear fender is outweighed by the practical. If you are one of those Jet Jockeys who puts the scooter in the cargo hold and repeatedly knocks your scooter over don't waste the money. These are plastic with a nice clear coat. They will not take any abuse and will scratch just like a $350,000 Lamborgini in a parking garage. They are easy to replace if you trash one and it is a lot easier on the wallet than the deductible on the Lamborgini. The complete package is part number es7070232S (SILVER), es7070232R (RED), es7070232B (BLUE), at a nice package price. |
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| The beauty of the rear fender is outweighed by the practical. If you are one of those Jet Jockeys who puts the scooter in the cargo hold and repeatedly knocks your scooter over don't waste the money. These are plastic with a nice clear coat. They will not take any abuse and will scratch just like a $350,000 Lamborgini in a parking garage. They are easy to replace if you trash one and it is a lot easier on the wallet than the deductible on the Lamborgini. The complete package is part number es7070232S (SILVER), es7070232R (RED), es7070232B (BLUE), at a nice package price. |
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| The beauty of the rear fender is outweighed by the practical. If you are one of those Jet Jockeys who puts the scooter in the cargo hold and repeatedly knocks your scooter over don't waste the money. These are plastic with a nice clear coat. They will not take any abuse and will scratch just like a $350,000 Lamborgini in a parking garage. They are easy to replace if you trash one and it is a lot easier on the wallet than the deductible on the Lamborgini. The complete package is part number es7070232S (SILVER), es7070232R (RED), es7070232B (BLUE), at a nice package price. |
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| A clean design that is either a replacement or a retrofit for the units that were purchased without this item. A nice SILVER color with a clear coat makes your scooter look sharp! Fits the E707-1 side mount 350 watt or E707-2 hub motor 250 watt units. The full package that includes the front fender, rear fender and the non illuminated reflector is part number es7070232S (Silver), es7070232R (Red), es7070232B (Blue). |
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| A clean design that is either a replacement or a retrofit for the units that were purchased without this item. A nice BLUE color with a clear coat makes your scooter look sharp! Fits the E707-1 side mount 350 watt or E707-2 hub motor 250 watt units. The full package that includes the front fender, rear fender and the non illuminated reflector is part number es7070232S (Silver), es7070232R (Red), es7070232B (Blue). |
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| A clean design that is either a replacement or a retrofit for the units that were purchased without this item. A nice RED color with a clear coat makes your scooter look sharp! Fits the E707-1 side mount 350 watt or E707-2 hub motor 250 watt units. The full package that includes the front fender, rear fender and the non illuminated reflector is part number es7070232S (Silver), es7070232R (Red), es7070232B (Blue). |
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| A nice casting in aluminum that will produce a very strong clamping force to hold the handle bars or the seat to the down tubes. Please notice that the large one is on the left (e7070130). The baby clamp is on the right (es7070135). |
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| Nice bead blasted aluminum tube to replace that bent thing that won't let you use the seat post any more. Does not include the bottom clamp (E7070130) or the top clamp. (es7070135) |
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| Strong aluminum, nice welds. Only works when they are not mangled in order to slide smoothly. |
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| Includes seat post tube (es7070136), seat post (es7070138) and a seat 00101 and es7070135 the small seat post clamp. This should get you back to sitting down on your ride after your little brother decided to take the whole thing! |
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| A complete rim, tire, tube, bearings. Pressure tested for at least a week prior shipment. Spun up to confirm rim is true and brakes applied to roughen up the painted rim edge to make the brakes work better right off the bat. |
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| ONLY $5 BUCKS MORE THAN THE STRIPPED UNIT YOU GET A TIRE, A TUBE AND THE FAMOUS ALL WEATHER 90 BRAKE. You are going to need a 17mm & 14mm to loosen the axle but don't do any of this until you have used the 8mm to undo the brake housing assembly positioning bolt. This is the key to aligning and holding alignment for the belt tension and pulley belt. A 10mm nut driver is very handy for positioning the axle tentioners in perfect alignment for putting the HTD belt without side loads and BELT run out. After you get all of the geometry and tension correct, take a deep breath, puff out your chest and grunt with satisfaction. YEAH AND SINCE FOR ONLY FIVE BUCKS MORE THAN THE STRIPPED UNIT YOU DID NOT EVEN HAVE TO GET YOUR FINGERS PINCHED WHILE MOUNTING THE TIRE AND PUNCHING A HOLE IN THE TUBE. SWEET SUCATASH! |
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| Complete axle assembly with the special beveled spacers in the correct order of how they would fit in the assembly. You do remember the order they were in when you took it apart right? To save yourself a lot of time, the entire assembly goes in at the same time. You would never be able to thread the axle into place while trying to hold the bearings and then the inner axle support spacer would get in the way to really make your blood boil. |
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| We really do not know where you put these things after you took your scooter apart but here they are. Remember that they fit inside the sub assembly with the bent threaded shaft fitting in the rear axle mounting groove. Remember that now? |
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| Complete sub assembly for you to have fun with. Includes the mounting bolts to the main frame and to the shock mounts. This includes the beefier HUB motor and the special articulating swing arm with the correct motor mount for the HUB motor. No muss, no fuss, no lost fingers trying to do the upgrade yourself, your mom would be proud of you. |
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| This is just about half of everything it would take to put one back together after a pretty good attempt at winning a 'Darwin Award'. We hope you were wearing a helmet. |
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| Steel swing arm assembly including the motor mount to fit the NO HUB motor, both shocks with hardware for the shocks and the swing arm attachment. Please notice that this is the picture for the NO HUB motor. IF you have a HUB Motor this will not fit. Please order the correct unit. |
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| Swing Arm and Shocks, HUB motorThe HUB motor mount is included with this item. Designed to fit the HUB motor with the added strength of the outer bearing to support the output shaft. This unit will accomodate a NO HUB motor. |
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| Complete package of the front fender, rear fender and the non illuminated red reflector installed with hardware. Hand sanded with a quality base coat and a hand rubbed clear coat. A lot of work goes into making these parts look good. This is the SILVER package. The silver package costs less than the other packages since it is the most popular and more of them are made at a greater savings for you. Get ready for the Prom with this set! |
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| Fender and reflector package. BLUEComplete package of the front fender, rear fender and the non illuminated red reflector installed with hardware. Hand sanded with a quality base coat and a hand rubbed clear coat. A lot of work goes into making these parts look good. This is the BLUE package. |
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| Fender and reflector package, REDComplete package of the front fender, rear fender and the non illuminated red reflector installed with hardware. Hand sanded with a quality base coat and a hand rubbed clear coat. A lot of work goes into making these parts look good. This is the RED package. |
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| The complete front fork arrangement including fork, shocks, shock covers, gland nuts, roller bearing, the brake pads, brake pad mounts with adjusters and supporting aluminum section to mount to the frame. You really banged it up, sure hope you were wearing a helmet. Soon you will be back on the road again. |
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| The swing lock pin goes into the detent to hold the scooter either folded or unfolded. This pin is critical to check every time that you prepare to use the scooter. Make sure that the pin is completely in the detent and then use the clamp assembly to hold it there. |
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| The swing pin is the critical item that supports the Front Forks Master Assembly and allows the scooter to fold. Notice that the picture purposely shows two parts, the pin and the threaded pin end cap. It is crucial to safe operation that you insure that this pin is in place and that the pin end cap is fully threaded and in place. The loss of this pin can result in the collapse of the scooter or even the separation of the entire Front Forks Master Assembly. Please check you your equipment and keep it in good condition. |
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| This is about the cheapest way to get the threaded shaft to attach the handle bar unit after a major crash or just putting so much pressure on the handle bars that you broke or bent the threaded shaft. Please be careful out there. |
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| A very nice aluminum tubing system with beautiful welds and a shot peen finish that holds the bearings (es7070335)top and bottom in a retainer cup that is also provided top and bottom to the front fork assembly (e7070330). |
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| Includes es7070336, 7070333, es7070335 at a nice discount. Just about everything you would need except the bearing grease and the adjusting tool to properly adjust the bearing tension. Please do not use a pipe wrench, vise grips or water pump pliers to make these adjustments. Any good bike shop will have the correct thin wrenches to do a proper job. |
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| Make sure you have a good bearing grease when you install these. See the instuctions for es7070336 to adjust. |
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| These are the required bearing retainer, spacer and lock nut to properly adjust the bearings to the forks. Be careful to have heavy bearing grease for the bearings and adjust the bearing retainer nut for good contact without crushing the bearings. The action should be smooth without feeling a bumping action which means that you have over tightened the bearings. The lock nut will hold the adjustment. Check all of this on a regular basis. |
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| Includes safety disconnect that turns off the controller and removes power from the motor to allow full breaking action. The way you tell this is the right hand is because you use your right hand to squeeze the brake while behind the handle bars. |
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| Please notice that this cable for the right hand goes to the front brake and is much shorter than the rear cable for the left hand and is not interchangeable. |
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| The complete charging port assembly including the fitted rubber cover to protect the pins from the weather, the attachment bolts for the Plastic Battery Box (es7070pbb). The wiring includes the diode (a one way electrical gate) that prevents electricity from going in two directions. |
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| The wire and center pull wire holder that connects the front brakes. |
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| The complete front left and right brake assembly that includes all of the pads, adjusters for canting the brake pads, return springs and mounting bolts to attach to the fork. |
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| Front Brake PadsFront brake pads only. |
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| All of the correct parts to connect the Front Fork Master Assembly (es7070331). Aluminum extrussions, machined spacer, high tensile tension rod, offset cam with slide and attachment knob. |
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| The stylish way to cover up those Akisu high performance suspension technology shocks. |
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| Aluminum tube for attaching the handle bar (7070hb) to the front forks master assembly (es7070331). Remember to make sure that the bolts to the Front Steering Tube Clamp (es7070ftsc) and that the clamp itself are not stripped because they must provide a very strong clamping force. |
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| Strong aluminum clamp that includes the two hex chrome steel bolts that recess into the clamp to provide the clamping force. |
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| Nice aluminum handle bars with a satin finish that look a lot better than those tangled things you are replacing. |
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| Black rubber grips that include a texture for hanging on during those white knuckle rides. Includes the little holes on the ends for attaching the pom poms to really set you off in a crowd. |
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| The original deal for the purist. Original stand with the original bolt. |
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| An upgrade to the original aluminum kick stand. Made in the USA an is a very nice and sturdy aluminum alloy that has been trimmed to the proper length and angle. Includes a hardened bolt of the proper thread pitch and a lock washer to make the retrofit easy to do. |
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| This plastic battery box fits the 707-1, 707-2 and includes the compartments for the battery and motor controller, the cut outs for you to install your Charging Port Assembly (es7070cpa) and your Heavy Duty Key Switch (e7070112). |
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| Sold as a pair the rear shocks come with all of the hardware, tension adjusters, mounting bolts and nylon washers. |
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| This is the brass pin and the spring steel assembly that lets the sliding parts be adjusted. Fits any of the brass spring pin assemblies on the unit. |
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| At this price (how close to zip is nothing) the Snapon or Mac Tools guy would not even let you in their truck. What this means is that when you order anything else from our site we will include this for free with your request (no crystal ball, you need to tell us by making a note in the comments section of the order form). No leatherettes were harmed in making the pouch to hold these tools in. |
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| Some times a good idea just does not make a good translation into a production item. The plastic parts here just do not do justice to the otherwise 'industrial nature' of the rest of this machine. The post clamp and bag holder should have been made completely of metal and not made up of plastic here. We are giving these to you at half price (and a discount on top of that too) considering you are getting two for the price of one. We recommend that you mount this as low as it will go on the post and let the bag rest on the back of the bike and not cantilever (float in the wind) like the original pictures. |
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| The standard battery installation wiring can be a problem. If the only one that ever rides the scooter is under 80 pounds, never trashes the scooter, does not go off road, does not go through puddles and does not try to climb Pikes Peak you may never have a wiring issue. High stress loads on the motor, heavy drivers (we have seen 265 pounders) and hill climbing shoots the electrical load demand right through the roof. (Such a person NEEDS a twin engine, but even that will not climb Pike's Peak located in Colorado Springs, CO. Lt. Zebulon Montgomery Pike discovered the mountain in 1806. Automobile and motorcycle racers from all over the world compete in the Pikes Peak Hill Climb every Fourth of July; racers negotiate 12 miles and 156 hair-raising turns in a little over ten minutes with a verticle climb of 7500 feet). This hook up is designed to be a replacement for the factory wiring on the Kahuna battery 36 volts/ 10.5 amp hour system. The original system can work for some of users. HOWEVER, experience has shown us that sometimes that is not enough. Depending on who does the installation and what they know about being careful under the hood can be the difference of a nice ride or a long push. The inline fuse MUST be installed on the side of the battery and must not wind up between the hood and the top of the battery (which is the case in the original installation). The picture shows the wiring pulled up out of it's resting place to the side of the battery. The battery box has a seperator that gives you over 1/2 inch gap to place the wiring and inline fuse holder out of harms way. You do not want the inline fuse holder under the hood where it can be stepped on and crushed. Just the right foot in the wrong place will crush the fuse holder and ruin your whole day. This hook up has a beefy inline fuse holder with a 30 amp slow blow fuse and 3M insulated male and female disconnects. It does not have the two bridges to connect the three 12 volt batteries together, since this is a one piece battery system, so if you think you can order this for the Standard Battery and save a couple of bucks, we will be the first to tell you that a square peg will not fit into a round hole. Skip the Latte today to afford the right connections. The idea is to by pass the existing nylon connector that has been damaged or is a poor connector causing high resistance, overheating, poor power transfer and generally poor performance. We highly recommend this item. For the installation we highly recommend a high quality ratchet type crimping tool with a die designed for insulated crimps to make this installation correctly. Yes, this is what we use. What would you expect? |
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| The standard battery installation wiring can be a problem. If the only one that ever rides the scooter is under 80 pounds, never trashes the scooter, does not go off road, does not go through puddles and does not try to climb Pike's Peak (see the Kahuna battery Heavy Duty Hook Up for some information on Pike's Peak) you may never have a wiring issue. High stress loads on the motor, heavy drivers (we have seen 265 pounders) and hill climbing shoots the electrical load demand right through the roof. HOWEVER, experience has shown us that sometimes that is not enough. Depending on who does the installation and what they know about being careful under the hood can be the difference of a nice ride or a long push. The inline fuse MUST be installed on the side of the battery and must not wind up between the hood and the top of the battery (which is the case in the original installation). Just the right foot in the wrong place will crush the fuse holder and ruin your whole day. This hook up has a beefy inline fuse holder with a 30 amp slow blow fuse and 3M insulated male and female disconnects. This hook up is designed to be a direct replacement for the original wiring. The kit includes the wires to bridge the three 12 volt / 7 amp hour batteries (sometimes 9 amp hour batteries were used) to make up the 36 volts for the system. The idea is to by pass the existing nylon connector that has been damaged or is a poor connector causing high resistance, overheating, poor power transfer and generally poor performance. We highly recommend this item. You must use a high quality ratchet type crimping tool with a die designed for insulated crimps to make this installation correctly. This kit is only for the three 12 volt batteries and will not fit the Big Kahuna Battery. |
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| A bit of electrical smoke and mirrors if you ask me. This inverter is the very same one that allows that world famous rock band to charge their scooters between L.A. and everywhere in between. The 300 watts continuous with 600 watts intermittant is more than enough power to charge two scooters at the same time. The unit has fans built in to take care of the heat. Make sure that your bird or motor home or SUV has a 12 volt power supply. We can custom make any config. to fit your needs including requests for 400hz power suppies (for a price of course). Is that one of our scooters on the Ronald Reagan Aircraft Carrier? Yeah baby! |
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| Sought after, hunted for and coveted. Just look at the size of that porp, it's the size of the wings for goodness sakes. You will be the envy of the airport with this guy mounted on the handlebars. Go on, enjoy life will you! |
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| Just a sign of clean living. Exercise your thumb often and clear the road. |
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| Not your everyday lock but a massive 12mm x 6 foot resettable combination lock with a plastic cover to protect your possessions and includes a 'QuikClip' mounting bracket. Great big numbers on the rotating tumblers so that you may not have to pull out the glasses to read the combination. It is a shame though to have to lock up your stuff. Just don't forget the combination or you are going to have a heck of a time getting this thing off! |
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| Well it finally came out. You wanted to order an Elite. The fully loaded version, the big cruiser with all of the goodies. The problem is you also wanted a pizza supreme and you were just about torn apart. Ok. For just about the price of that pizza (now that you are watching those carbs) you can get the Nylon Zippered Bag with the post clamp and the attachment clip and wire holder. This will hold your charger and some other goodies while you are on the road. Just remember that this needs to be mounted low, low low. So low that the bag end sits on the rear deck. If you do not mount this bag low than you know that we are giving you an out when you crack the plastic connectors (see acccbcsx2). This bag goes well with your black leather jacket for you wild side Brando wanabees. Includes a silver reflectoring sewn on to the bag for the night riders. |
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